Feels like it’s been a minute since we’ve been served a proper surf edit.
Leave it to Chapter 11 TV to deliver the early-Christmas goods. Eithan Osbourne, Micky Clarke, Matt McCabe, and Dane in brown or, sometimes, dark-blue, rainy, stormy, unfavourable winter surf. And they make it look excellent.
Of course, there’s more to it than just surfing. We’ll leave you with these words Dane wrote to accompany the video…
“It’s December 7th and it feels like it’s June. Been flat and gloomy. August had 55-degree water. I swear the pipe used to have a half-decent arrangement of cobbles for a somewhat rippable albeit soft peeler. Now it’s a turd. Theres a graveyard of pipe cobbles at San Jon. No rain to restock the pipe.
“‘Star Bar,’ remember that? Every 4/5 years there’d be a rain event significant enough to create a massive sandbar at Santa Clara river mouth that extended out 100 yards sometimes more. It’s been about 17 years since the last ‘Star Bar.’
“What I’m saying is I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming. 20 years is a tiny slice of time for drastic change. Is it purely a cycle? Or is the earth a microwave choking on carbon and there’s no turning back? I know everyone reading this is an expert, can we get some scientific evaluation? Anyone wanna compare notes from your regional data?”
In short, sometimes the waves are bad for reasons more so than the tide not being right.